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near Mandalay, Upper Burma August 1998 - by Adam Flinn

The hotel, town and even country may have changed name but some things stubbornly resist the temptations of modernisation.  The Candacraig in Maymo, Burma may is now officially called the Thiri Myaing Hotel, Pyin U Lwin, Myanmar. Most visitors, however, remain impassioned supporters of the former glory days and ghosts of yester-year exuding from this wonderful old teak lodge.

Constructed in 1904 as a chummery (bachelors quarters) for the  Burmah Bombay Trading Co the building has retained it's distinctive Scottish hunting Lodge style. The lodge was opened as a hotel in 1970 and represents a touch of old colonial life-style in one of Asia's most beautiful, yet rarely visited, hill-stations. 

A drive up the long gravel drive to the hotel is lined with flowers, shrubs and trees of both European and Asian types. Many trees were planted when the hotel was opened and the seven acre garden provides idyllic strolling space.  An ivy-covered wishing well is centred on the sweeping lawn in front of the main building.

The pink panels and main towers with attached balconies form a perfectly symmetrical design on all four faces of the hotel. First impressions when entering is of awe at the imposing teak-staircase and the gleaming, highly polished floors lend credence to a marvellous illusion of timelessness. A huge fireplace in the main lobby area is stoked by a mild mannered man of some fifty years of age referred to as boy.

The hotel provides a home for four families. Long term service is more the norm than the exception as staff enjoy family style conditions.  The two head waiters Joseph and Edward have both spent  twenty two years at the hotel and do not take any days off.  "What would we do, it's our home" they explained. Joseph arrived after eighteen years at Strand in Rangoon. Security is handled by Sabu a Nepali ex-paratrooper of Burmese Army. Margaret the main front office administrator is daughter of the famous ex-manager and head chef Mr Bernard who sadly passed away.

Hotel guest book entries  echo a familiar theme such as .... "Maymo is the Candacraig, or Candacraig is Maymo. Don't change this wonderful vestige of history" one visitor writes.

The Future

The hotel is government owned and actively seeking a buyer. The service and atmosphere is of a bygone era, lost nowadays in the modern concrete hotels and themed lodges of the mass market.   The sale will practically ensure changes of staff, probable new-wing construction, and the end of almost a century of tradition.

The Candacraig is a place of dreams, unforgettable memories and striking beauty.   It is a slim hope, but a strong one nevertheless, that the hotel finds a proprietor appreciative of her history and importance and committed to the conservation of this precious heirloom.

The Town

A twenty minute walk from the hotel takes visitors into the centre of the town. Colonial, Nepalese, Chinese, Indian, Burmese, Shan and many other building styles combine to present a pleasing and serene view.  Before reaching the town there are many red-brick English style buildings which were constructed by the teak loggers and auxiliaries. Four-sided signposts would not appear out of place in rural England point the way into town or further into the Shan heartland's.  The cool air makes walking pleasant.

Tea Shop in town

In town the Purcell clock tower was presented to the town by Queen Victoria and still works, chiming on the hour to the tune of Big Ben. The town is almost as timeless as the Candacraig and the main mode of transportation is by pony trap.

Visitors would be forgiven by thinking that these stagecoach type wagons were put there for the benefit of tourists but they, in fact, represent the local bus system. Tea-shops provide the main method of entertainment for the young an old alike and offer a range of sweet cakes and pastries.

South of the town and less than two miles away from the Candacraig hotel is the Maymo Golf Club.  Although the club house has seen better days the grounds are relatively well kept. The 18 hole course was founded in the late 1800's and is open to non-members. Dress codes apply and T-shirts or collarless garments are not acceptable. Clubs can be rented.

Close to the club are botanical gardens. Built during the first world war by Turkish prisoners of war by Col. May (of Maymo fame) the 49 acres of orchids, trails, ponds and gardens are a pleasant way to spend an afternoon for the few Kyat entrance fee.

Markets

There are two main markets in town, central which is fairly unremarkable selling imported Chinese wares easily found throughout Asia, and the Shan Market which is an interesting place to see unusual local items, cloths and foodstuffs. The cool climate of the town means that European fruits and vegetables can be grown here. Strawberries etc will be available in the markets according to season.

Getting There

The town is 67 km east of Mandalay and at an altitude of 1070 meters. Take a taxi or train to Pyin U Lwin (Maymo) from Mandalay. The journey takes around two hours. Flights to   Mandalay are regular from Yangoon (Rangoon) and flights to the capital (Yangoon) leave Bangkok every day, Chiang Mai twice a week. Bangladesh, India, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur all have regular flights.  Visa's necessary for nearly all nationalities.